PHOTOGRAPHED BY JAMES ERICKSON.

BEST RESTAURANTS
Critics' Choice - Chef-Driven

I think the most interesting and well-prepared food in the cities night in and night out is served at chef-driven neighborhood restaurants. For me, it's all about the food. In these eateries, that's the point--the stuffy trappings of overstated service that were the hallmark of restaurants of this caliber a generation ago tend to be absent. These smaller, chic boîtes can hit from both sides of the plate. The food is sophisticated enough for a celebratory meal, but casual enough for weekday dining. If you are looking for spectacular and creative cookery, inspired presentations, or simply a neatly executed weekday supper, these spots are the ones you can count on to deliver in the clutch. --Andrew Zimmern

112 Eatery
 
112 Eatery is the perfect restaurant. The food is personal and ingredient quality is of the highest order. Isaac Becker, the chef-owner, takes risks and succeeds almost all of the time. Where else could a fried-egg-bacon-harissa sandwich cause such a stir? Most important, the service, attitude, and vibe all complement the experience--112 fires on all cylinders.
Best Bets
Sautéed sweetbreads in porcini and clam sauce; escarole with anchovy and nutmeg.
Prime Time There is always action at this insanely popular restaurant, but the fun crowd dines late on Fridays.
Pssst
Since portions are sensible and a few dishes are available in two sizes, it's easy to make a fun progression of courses for any sized group.
But With only fifty seats and a reservation system that will only accept reservations two months in advance, getting a table is tough.