On this job, the eating never stops. Nearly every day, I'm either
heading off to the next new restaurant or catching up on an old one.
But how do I choose which restaurants to review? How do I keep on top
of what's happening? I kept this restaurant diary for a week. A lot of
people think I have a cushy job. You be the judge.
TUESDAY
It's a friend's birthday, and I know just the place to take her.
Crema Cafe (3403 Lyndale Ave. S., Minneapolis; 612-824-3868) has always
been known for serving some of the best ice cream in the state, but
these days, this charming little spot is about more than Sonny's ice
cream.
Now, there's lunch, a simple but satisfying menu of soups, salads
and sandwiches. Everything is organic, just like the ice cream, and the
food rarely disappoints. My friend loves her grilled panini with tomato
and goat cheese. I'm just as happy with my lentil salad with roasted
carrots and beets.
Feeling smug because we've eaten so clean and practically fat-free,
we finish off with a giant slice of chocolate carrot cake and a dish of
coffee ice cream. It's all so good, the bill so moderate and the
service so laid back. we leave with every intention of returning soon.
WEDNESDAY
On the front page of the paper this morning is a story about how a
few extra pounds could actually be good for you. Great news! I'm
crossing my fingers the next health study to come out will be on the
benefits of sugar.
Today, I head out to Columbia Heights' newest Indian restaurant. The guy at Best Buy who sold me my washing machine recommended Chutney Indian Grill
(3700 Central Ave., N.E., Columbia Heights; 763-782-9900). "It's not as
good as my wife's cooking," he said, "but it's very, very good."
Chutney turns out to be a few tables in the middle of a deli. But
the Best Buy guy was right about the food. Even though it's buffet-only
at lunch, everything is fresh and distinctive.
We try it all — samosas, meat and vegetable curries, tandoori
chicken, mint and tamarind chutneys, hot pickles and yogurt with grated
cucumber to cool things down. Most of all, we love the fresh Indian
flatbread brought to the table hot from the oven. There is plain bread
and garlic bread sprinkled with fresh cilantro, and we devour the
entire basket. At $15 for two of us, the meal is quite a bargain.
My friend, Gourmet magazine editor Ruth Reichl, is in town for the
day promoting her new book, "Garlic and Sapphires." I pick her up for
dinner after her last gig, a book signing at Solera, and we head over
to 112 Eatery (112 N. Third St., Minneapolis; 612-343-7696).
It's only a few blocks away in the Warehouse District, but I still
manage to get us lost. When we finally arrive an hour later, the place
is packed. Everybody wants to eat at this new dinner-only late-night
hotspot, run by former Café Lurcat chef Isaac Becker and his wife,
Nancy St. Pierre. Call for reservations, and you'll be lucky if they
can squeeze you in before midnight. Fortunately, half the seats are
left for walk-ins like us.
We order far too much because everything on the menu sounds so good,
and it's all reasonably priced. Ruth particularly likes the
sweet-and-sour crab salad and the cauliflower fritters. The foie gras
with sticky rice would be better, she said, if the rice were warm
instead of cold. I greedily devour most of the lamb scottadito, pounded
chops hot off the grill.
The room is loud and cramped but in good way, like you're at a very
fun party. Driving home, I feel satisfied I've upheld the honor of the
Twin Cities' food scene.
THURSDAY
Chef Don Saunders has left A Rebours (410 St. Peter St., St. Paul;
651-665-0656), one of my favorite restaurants. I'm stunned when I hear
his replacement would be the French-born Patrick Atanalian. This is the
guy who came up with halibut in a Gummi Bear crayfish broth when he
cooked at the Vintage Restaurant in St. Paul.
Turns out Atanalian hasn't started yet, so I'll have to wait to see
if A Rebours owner Doug Anderson lets him get away with such outlandish
creations. Meanwhile, sous chef Matt Kempf, formerly of Goodfellows and
Red, is in charge of the kitchen, and the bistro food is as good as
ever, including the fork-tender brisket, my favorite dish on the lunch
menu.
FRIDAY
I've been meaning to try Korea Restaurant (211 Oak St. S.E.,
Minneapolis; 612-331-1260). The woman who owns a hair salon in the same
building opened it earlier this year. I thought it sounded interesting,
sort of a Korean version of the Aveda Institute.
The small Dinkytown café is warm and cozy. In fact, the two women at
a nearby table are knitting between bites. But as much as I appreciate
the ambience, the food is disappointing. After eating my way through
mediocre chap chae, the Korean answer to chow mein, bean sprout soup
with a strange fishy flavor and a spicy bibambop rice casserole that is
cold in spots, I'm only too happy to leave.
Tonight, I'm meeting my sister for pizza at Buon Giorno (981
Sibley Memorial Highway, Lilydale; 651-905-1080). At night, the deli
attached to I Nonni restaurant turns out amazingly good pizza for
around $10.
When we arrive, most people are lining up for the pasta bar. We
order and pay at the cash register, then grab a table. Five minutes
later, we're devouring a simple but delicious Napoletana with tomato,
mozzarella, an-chovies, capers and olives. But my favorite is the
prosciutto and arugula, which are added right as the pizza comes out of
the oven so the ingredients are warm and slightly wilted. The two
pizzas, bottled water and dessert costs $30. And there's enough to take
home for another meal.
SATURDAY
After a morning of shopping in downtown Minneapolis, I head back to
St. Paul via Northeast Minneapolis. Ever since reporter Gail
MarksJarvis mentioned the Thai chicken-satay salad at Pop! (2859 N.E.
Johnson St.; 612-788-0455), that's all I can think of.
Besides, this charming spot with pop art on the walls, pop music on
the sound system and 47 kinds of soda pop on the menu, also has great
sandwiches, pastas and Swedish meatballs.
That Thai salad with mixed greens, cucumbers and wontons tossed in a
peanut sauce and served with skewers of grilled chicken is as good as
Gail said it was. The walleye sandwich is delicious, too, and the salty
matchstick fries are fantastic. As I leave, I'm wishing we had a nice
little restaurant like this in my Como neighborhood.
SUNDAY
It's all-you-can-eat sushi night at Martini Blu at the Grand Hotel
(615 Second Ave. S., Minneapolis; 612-752-9595). Mr. Meat and Potatoes
isn't interested until I tell him he can have a steak off the regular
menu.
When we get there, the hostess tells us the restaurant is closed and
all that's available is sushi or tempura in the bar. He doesn't want
tempura because it's fried, and he isn't about to eat raw fish. But
once he gets a look at the beer list and our super nice server tells
him she will order him a platter of cooked specialty rolls, he's
looking a lot happier.
If you love sushi, $29.95 for all you can eat is a bargain. To
start, you get miso soup and a bowl of edamame, fresh soybeans slightly
salted and still in the pod. You can have as much sushi as you want,
but you can order only three at a time.
I start at the top of the list and work my way down: rosy shrimp,
flounder, cuttlefish, mackerel, velvety yellowtail, red snapper,
octopus and tuna — all laid over lightly vinegared rice.
Mr. Meat and Potatoes was pleased with his specialty rolls, but I
thought they were a little over the top, like the lobster roll wrapped
in strawberries and avocado and served with raspberry sauce.
Overall, the quality of the fish here is high, and it comes out
fairly fast. There's a lot of friendly banter between the sushi chefs
and the customers. When I ask our server if she has ever had to cut
anyone off, she shakes her head no. In fact, she says, many in the room
are regulars who stay the entire night, pacing themselves.
MONDAY
Usually, Mondays are so busy I eat a sandwich at my desk, but it's
spring now, and I want to get out of the office, even for only an hour
or so. I decide to check out Tryg's in Minneapolis, which just started
opening for lunch.
Word must have gotten around, because the place is hopping. Tryg
Truelson opened the restaurant in December in the spot where his
mother's restaurant, Nora's, once stood. The space is sophisticated and
contemporary, and the food is basically updated retro fare.
For appetizers, there's a really nice French onion soup and a
wonderful beet salad with arugula, goat cheese and crisp bits of thick
bacon. But the hamburger is too small for the bun, and a BLT made with
pancetta, avocado, roasted tomatoes and tons of mayo is sloppy to eat.
I'm disappointed, but it might just be an off day. I plan on going
back a few more times before I write my review. So much eating to do —
so little time.
